Mamallapuram (aka Mahabalipuram!)

Well dear Annie, thank you for pummeling this name into my head, as I would have never remembered the name otherwise!!! We have been here now two nights, and I think will stay another night, perhaps. It is a small village with only a few streets just south (60ks) of Chennai.

We had quite an ordeal getting here, as we decided not to catch a tourist bus, but go by local. We had just left the Apollo hospital with the sensation of the jabs still in our arms and the heat sinking in once more after the cool interiors of the emergency room, when this smiling man greeted us and asked if he could help us. He was Muslim, with a round hat on and the long tunic and from Bangladesh. After chatting about work, family and promising to visit him if we were ever in his country (and also becoming his friend on facebook!), he bargained down a rickshaw driver to 60 rupees to take us to Marina beach, where we had heard we could get the 19pp bus to Mahabalipuran. The driver didn't really agree to the price, as he would normally charge at least Rs 100 for foreigners, but Mr Bangladesh was adamant that his 'friends' would get a good price, and we jumped in. (and ended up giving him Rs 70 for good measure, to which he cheekily chuckled)

Thankfully lots of nice people told us which buses to get on to as the bus system is very confusing for us, enhanced by the fact that they only stop for a few seconds and everyone rushes off or on super fast, so if you are not quick enough you miss your bus. We managed to stop a bus or two long enough to talk to someone (Johannes bravely did this!) and got told that the 19pp doesn't go to Mahabalipuran by the driver, but then got on a 19ppX to Kovalam, and then another train (didn't see the number, as we had a friend by then, who stopped and bought us a strange-tasting 'mix juice' from a stand. it tasted moldy to me, but I would feel rude not finishing it, so gulped it down!) for the rest of the trip to our destination.

So by the sea, this little town, so touristy with one VERY clean and VERY quiet street for tourists, where shop owners just sit and wait for a sale. A few streets over is the usual noise, life and grime of the locals. It is quite disconcerting, I have to say. We realise that once faced with what we want (the quiet resorts, the beautiful clothes and gifts, the western cuisine), we no longer want it. We would rather be in the noisiness of local life and find our own way through the chaos. It is strange.

There are also tourists who swim and lie around in bikinis, which must be shocking for the locals, who mostly would believe in modesty, yet somehow here it is accepted as tourist behaviour. I suppose it feels much more segregated here between tourist and local, and taxi drivers or sellers are constantly trying to make a sale.

In saying that, there are amazing temple-structures and carves ruins from stone, a lovely beech (just don't relax completely as there is a dump or two in the golden sand!), and it is much calmer than where we were previously, in the heart of the Chennai suburbs.

How was it when you were here, Terry? And what time of year?



(sorry no pictures today as these computers can't read our files)